This function can ensure that the battery will last longer and stay efficient. In addition, the DLS 55 can automatically drop the current as the battery is nearing its full capacity. You can use it within minutes. This product also has a low operating temperature, making it more dependable when it comes to efficiency.
Another thing I liked about the unit is that it can fit different sizes of mobile homes, campers and recreational vehicles. It is also by a top brand known for intelligent engineering and construction. It continues to impress RV owners for the high performance of their converters. The WFMBA 55 DC amp is one of the top choices among RV owners who want to make use of a long-lasting and dependable converter for their recreational vehicle, camper, and mobile home or travel trailer.
One of the things that impress me about this RV DC converter is its automatic three-stage charging system. I also liked that it has a power input totaling up to watts. In addition, the converter also offers us good investment for its versatility.
It is able to handle the charging requirements of your vehicle. I am also impressed that the unit can fit tight spaces for its small and compact size. When it comes to installation, you only have to use two DC wires, three pieces of AC wires and two pieces of screws. It will let you install the unit in minutes. I also find that this unit is a top performer even if it is not that expensive as other models on the market are. The converter can also work well to solve any 12V fluctuation issues.
The smart charger and AC converter is a top choice for many RV owners that are looking for efficient and quality converter system for their camper or recreational vehicle. It is one of the right power converters for RV that has a large charging capacity. It can work for 75 amps for 12VDC and This product is also high quality that it is listed to CSA In addition, this unit is a three-stage smart charger that has variable charging voltage in order to extend battery life.
It can be used for different charging voltage mechanism like float, absorb and bulk. It also has four different preprogrammed charging algorithms with the use of dip switches for many kinds of charging profiles. When shopping for travel trailer power converters, you must also consider ease of use. This model has an adjustable charge current control dial that allows for safe charging of smaller batteries.
It also comes with a wide input voltage range. It is also backed up by two years of warranty. Finally, it can offer multiple protections that include under voltage, over voltage and over temperature, to name some. This WFCO converter is known for its nice features that include a quiet operation, which is one of the things that the manufacturer has thought of adding in the design. It comes with a cooling fan that only works when it is needed. This fan can also prevent the overheating of the unit.
In addition, this model is design to work and deliver clean power with or without a battery. It features electronic current limiting function that can automatically turn the power off when there is a faulty condition like an overload or short circuit.
I would also like to recommend this item for its ease of use. It is designed and built with a LED system on its front panel. It will help you in monitoring the operation of the converter.
It will also give you an idea of any low battery status, one of its most valuable features. You can also count on it when it comes to producing reliable and clean DC power for your appliances with or without a battery.
I also liked that it comes with power factor corrections and draws low power. It can also maintain the proper charge and maintenance of a battery. The RV power converter 30 amp converter and battery charger is another reliable pick that you might want to take a look at if you are looking for a reliable and efficient converter.
In addition, I liked that this item is designed to deal with low transient AC line voltage. It is also reliable when it comes to offering overload protection and thermal protection. Also, it can offer external reverse polarity fuse protection due to an incorrect battery connection. More so, I would like to note that it has a quiet fan operation and can deliver a lower operating temperature. On the downside, this item is without a USB port and battery cables, though.
Overall, you might want to check it out for its quiet operation and smart features like the Switch mode technology. It can also offer multiple protections against faults.
You can also count on it for battery maintenance. Overall, it is the best RV converter charger for many travel trailer and recreational vehicle owners. You might want to check it out for yourself if you want an efficient and reliable converter system for your RV. The PowerMax PM4 is one of the most versatile RV DC converters on the market for its top performance and increased durability for its solid design and heavy-duty materials.
You can also rely on the battery charger when it comes to clean and safe DC power to your rig. With that said, you can have peace of mind that your appliances and electronics will be damaged. This unit comes with an integrated smart charger. You will also like that this is a smart unit that has a top performing charger that can control output between charge rates of bulk, This unit is also good for having a reverse polarity protection.
When it comes to quality, you can also rest assured that the unit meets standards, assuring users that it will last long and perform well.
In addition, the power converter is also very reliable when it comes to delivering 55 amps DC power output to your appliances and electronics. Are you looking for tough and smart best RV converter upgrade for the lower section? Then, you might not have to look any further when you have the Replacement Power Center that will help you have clean and pure DC power to your appliances and electronics, giving you peace of mind that power will be consistently available whenever you are camping or on the road.
The Parallax power supply is also one of the most reliable to have around because it is made of heavy-duty and sturdy materials that make it a top quality choice among recreational vehicle owners looking to use a reliable power supply center replacement section for their rig even for replacement or upgrade of their outdated power center. It is one of those that leave me a good impression because of its tough features that make it a powerful contender to be one of the best on the market now.
The Parallax Power Supply 55 Amp offers an easy direct lower section replacement. I also liked that it is lightweight at only 4.
It also has a compact and small footprint for its relatively small size of 9. This replacement section for WF, WFCO WF and Model is also made of heavy-duty materials, giving you peace of mind that you can maximize the value of your investment when you choose this replacement section for those mentioned models.
This unit is a part of the Inteli-Power Series that the brand has introduced to the market for their consumers looking for top quality converters. One of the most impressive features of the Progressive Dynamics PDV is the integrated charge wizard in the design, which aids in increasing the battery life. This converter is an ideal upgrade to your old or obsolete power chargers or converters.
It is not hard to install at all, and all you need are a few minutes to get the job done. It is a decent choice when it comes to safe and rapid charging of your RV batteries.
What does it mean? It pertains to system that is being controlled by a microprocessor. It also functions to keep the tracking of the battery voltage. In addition, the charge wizard can also make sure that your RV battery will be charged safely and quickly. This model also comes with four different operation modes that you can easily choose from based on the use and condition of the battery.
One of those impressive units I found is the GPC 55 MAX converter that is indeed one of the best in the category for its valuable features. The charger and converter will supply power to your rig and charge your battery quickly and safely. You can also rely on its increased efficiency for its four-stage charging system. This unit can handle up to six batteries. It can handle different battery banks at the same time. This converter is also available in many sizes, so you can choose one that can fit your rig.
In addition, this unit is one of the most flexible to find on the market. The unit also has a compact design, allowing you to install and fit it in your RV. You can rely on it that it can fit even in very tight spaces. It also includes a amp plug. This product also has a great design. The multiple batteries being charged on the unit will be charged at different levels.
So if there is a battery charged, all the others will be charged at multiple levels. It has a smart feature that lets you equalize the stages of the charging system. The unit can also make sure that batteries are charged at a higher than normal voltage. It is a great function to ensure that the batteries will have similar charge levels.
And when it comes to the equalize stage, it can also work automatically whenever a battery bank requires it, offering you with top convenience. I also liked that the converter comes with a 15A male plug, allowing for easier installation. In addition, you can have peace of mind that it will be compact to fit even in a small RV space. When it comes to quality and safety, you can be certain that the mode is UL listed.
You can have peace of mind that this power center is efficient and reliable whenever you need power supply to your appliances and electronics. When shopping around for a good RV power converter, you can choose the WFCO unit for its ability of supplying 35 amp of direct current output to your electrical appliances onboard your vehicle.
Another thing that impresses me about the power center is its ability of working with or without a battery. I also liked that the converter is fully automatic, making it convenient to use for RV owners looking for an efficient unit that can run without much maintenance required.
The unit also offers a three-stage charging system, promoting and extending longer battery life. You can also be certain that you can erase your worries because this converter also offers short circuit protection and reverse polarity protection. It can give you peace of mind that it is safe and dependable to use. The unit also has a built-in cooling fan, which can keep the system cool, lowering its risk of damage.
In addition, the fan will only work when needed. You can be sure that it will also promote a silent operation. It may have reverse polarity coming out of the battery if it was discharged and then re charged when hooked up to the wrong connections.
From there I would check the connections from the converter to the fuse panel, making sure they are correct. Check the connection to the breaker as well. Large sparks indicate large amp draw and if it is high enough to blow the fuse right away, there could be a bad short in the system as well. Is there any tests I can perform to confirm this?
Momentary main switch stayed on. Followed the direction in manual disconnected the ground of house battery have no 12 volt power. The switch may need replaced. They can get stuck and even if it releases, it may happen again. There are many different types and styles of main switches, I will provide a link to some sites that carry a variety of switches. You can always install a different type as well. I was told when I bought my pop-up recently that it need a battery and converter.
I have determined via my battery charger that the battery is dead — needs replacement. So, my question is, if I plug into shore power with the dead battery still connected should the converter do anything? Should lights come on? Must I have a good battery to get the converter to do anything? Thank you. My unit has a converter Magnetec and inverter Freedom It appears that both can charge batteries.
The inverter is external next to batteries. The converter is under back bed. Unit also has 2 transfer boxes. A 50 Ecco external in cord bin. And a 30 Ecco under bed next to converter. Yes the converter and inverter can both charge the batteries. The converter takes in the v AC and turns it into 12v DC to operate the fuse panel and all of the 12v components when plugged into an outlet.
It is connected to the battery to not only charge it, but it allows the batteries to send voltage to the fuse panel when not plugged into an outlet so you can use lights, slide outs, pump motor etc. The inverter you have most likely connects to one appliance, like a residential fridge or possible a set of outlets.
When plugged into an outlet, it turns off the conversion and just runs off of v coming from the shore cord. It can also convert the voltage to 12v to charge the battery.
This feature can be turned off on the inverter if not needed. The same goes for why there is 2 transfer switches as well. Normally there is only one transfer switch when a generator is installed, you can only have one source of v coming into the RV at a time. The transfer switch just allows one to come through. You should consult the owners manual for the unit and see why it is set up this way. They might just give you 2 power cords so you can use any pedestal but normally you can just use an adapter for this.
Do you have 3 air conditioners? I am really not sure. If you can provide the make, model and year of your RV I could try to look into why it is set up like this. Yes j bought a 92 Fleetwood wilderness camper. The converter was bad and they took it out so now I need to know what kind of converter I need like as far as what amp converter j need to get thanks…. It can be a little tricky to find out what size converter came with the RV if it was removed.
The converters installed at the factory are rated based on what is needed to run everything in the RV without going over the limit. Once you combine the total wattage, divide by You would want to get a converter just above that to allow for extra room as low voltage will cause high amp draw so you always want to be safe. There is a website that offers a power converter calculator that could help determine what you may need, it would be a good starting point.
We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership. Converter went out bought another converter hooked it up fan ran for a second or two went out. This is the third converter trailer is I had depended on the gas power generator for my power for 6 months then when I tried plugging it into a wall plug with a ground fault interrupt it tripped the interrupt. I am having problems with the 12 volt system. It would shut down and not come back on.
The system works fine. The shut off switch would turn it back on but would not stay on. Really would appreciate your help. Thanks James. It sounds like a problem with the converter. The best thing to do is check the connections going to it and the voltage going to and out of the converter. If the v going in fluctuates, it can cause this issue and the problem is with your shore cord, the buss bar or the outlet you are plugged into.
If there is steady voltage above VAC going to the converter and the 12v coming out fluctuates or is lower than Sometimes this can come down to a loose connection, I have seen this from the converter to the fuse panel and tightening the connection can make everything work again.
Inspecting and testing the voltage to and from the converter is really all you can do. I hope this helps! Every time I use slideouts on batterypower or slippery landing gear ,they stop then restart after cooling. Batteries are fully charged. I think I need new converter, it,s only a 40 watt converter. I picked up my inverter and found it to be a 24 volt inverter requiring me to have 8 batteries. Please let me know if I need to return this inverter.
The generator has less than 15 hours use. Please offer comments and recommendations! The generator runs on LP. When the vehicle is not running, the generator will start but die after a second or two. This may sound like a simple fuel supply issue, but strangely the generator runs perfectly well while the vehicle is running. In other words, if the engine is running and I start the generator, it happily keeps on running.
Additionally, the vehicle engine is not charging the house batteries. The fuses and Breakers are all fine, as far as I can find. I would check the wiring from the generator to the batteries. It should be connected to the house batteries and not the chassis battery? If it is connected to the chassis battery this would make sense of it working while the engine is running and immediately dies when the engine is not running. The batteries could be connected to the house batteries like they should though and you could have a different problem though.
You say that the batteries are not getting a charge while traveling, have you checked the voltage to the batteries while the engine is running?
There could be a charge going to the house batteries but they might not be accepting the charge if they are bad batteries. I would have the batteries charged from a different source and then load tested. Having bad batteries could be the issue that is causing the generator not to work.
It would also make since for the AC to shut down the system, it needs a high amp draw and if you have weak or bad batteries the system will shut down. The generator should also be charging the batteries while in use and if there is not voltage left in the batteries after it has been running and traveling, most likely it is bad batteries.
Again, I would have the batteries tested because from everything you have told me it sounds like this should be the issue. I hope it helps! I need my refrig. No juice going to lights and test panel inside rv except when plugged in to AC outlet. Is there a reset button on thor 4 winds rv? If so where is it located? I would first check to see what the voltage is at the battery when you are plugged into an outlet. It should be between 13vv when plugged in and nothing else is on.
If the battery is still reading 9v, then there is a problem with the charging system. If there is a charge being sent to the battery but it does not accept a charge, the battery would have to be replaced.
If it is, I would then check the fuse panel and make sure the fuse for the charge line is fine. Since you have lights when plugged in your converter should be fine.
It just sounds like the battery is not getting a charge. This is usually caused by a bad connection, blown fuse or bad battery. Make sure to check all connections and especially the chassis ground.
There will be a negative wire attached to the chassis and if this breaks or is loose, it could stop things from working like the charge line. Check all connections at the fuse panel and make sure they are tight as well.
There are some models that use a breaker instead of a fuse and some are automatic resetting while there are some that have a push button to reset them.
If you have one of these, they are typically found in the battery compartment. Most will use the fuses though and can be inline or at the main fuse panel. You will want to get a circuit tester and check the outlets. It is possible there is something wrong with the outlet the shore is plugged into or the adapter being used.
It will not tell you if there is an open neutral, open ground, reverse polarity or low voltage like a circuit test would do. Most will not say the voltage, you will have to use a voltmeter for that.
There is the possibility of the incoming wiring being wrong at the transfer switch but typically not likely. There could also be a problem with the shore cord as well. Since everything works fine off of the generator, things from the transfer switch to the panel are correct.
The problem is the v before the transfer switch so either the connections at the switch, shore cord, adapter or the outlet you are plugged into. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice like this , plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc.
Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within business days from our experts! Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate: 1. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password. Finish by clicking Complete Order. If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site. I have a issue with the 12 volt system killing my battery quite fast while being plugged into a v.
Even the fan system for the heater will kill the battery which is strange to me. Our Travelmate camper still has the original Progressive Dynamics power converter installed, it is only used to power the interior lights which have all been changed to LED fixtures. Last spring we had the camper out and when we powered up the converter all of the light were dim, but the converter was putting out 12 volts according to my voltmeter.
It took about 30 minutes for the lights to brighten up. I still have 12 volts. Do you think I have a bad convertor? Also, there is no battery in this camper. Great question! I would be happy to submit this to our team of experts for their input, but I need more information before I do that. Hello Rhonda, Thank you for contacting us. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content. And without knowing the make, model and year of your RV our experts would not be able to assist.
If you are interested in becoming a member to RV Repair Club, please click on the special offer below:. If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at Ended up replacing the converter. The converter was underneath in the basement area behind sliding doors and underneath some venting tubes.
We were told by the dealership to look in the basement and near the power cord. The running lights are all tied together on the same circuit so you first want to start by checking the fuse for that circuit.
If the fuse is fine you might have a wiring issue. They are all connected in parallel and if the first one has a bad connection preventing flow to the next light all of the others will go out. If the fuse is fine you will have to take out the lights and check for a bad connection. Typically the chain starts in the front and then goes to the rear so it is best to start at the front and work from there.
Converter not letting DC power Out. Problem DC coming in to Fuse block, only on side of fuse block had power with fuses out but 40 amp fuse in power went down to 5 or less amps, pulled it out back to Plug shore power in and you get dc power to battery and dc works. Installed new converter progressive pd same problem??? Thank you for contacting us. The experts are going to need the make, model and the year of the RV before they are able to assist you with the question. Please reply back with that information and we will submit your question.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at , or chat with us on our site. How do I tell if my converter is a multi stage battery charger? I recently was told that the battery were bad in my rv and it was because they were only 1 stage Either bulk or absorption. My batteries were 6v and both were dry.
I recently purchase this rv used. These batteries were installed Aug You would have to get the model number off of your converter and search for the manual and see what charging cycles it offers.
There is nothing visual to indicate what the converter offers for charging. The only thing that would indicate this would be the manual and the best way to find it is to locate the model number of your converter and either search for the manual or contact the manufacture directly and ask what it does. Even smart chargers will dry out batteries over time though. You have to make sure to check the water levels on a regular basis to prevent this from happening.
More often during use. Turn anything else on and the voltage drops to like 90 and the AC compressor kicks out. Is it the converter that is either too small or going dead? I believe that in general, I should always have close to v across the breakers. Really the best way to test the converter is checking the voltage. And, why only on shore power and not on straight dc? We have a 33ft. We use it about 5 months during the summer and winterize it for the winter, disconnecting the battery and storing it at home in a warm, dry basement.
This season, I have noticed that the DC lights are dimmer than they ever have been. Any idea what the problem might be? Do we need a new battery? Thanks for your help.
Hi Dianne. Thus the dimmer lights. I would recommend getting a Battery Minder from Northern Tool which will connect to the batteries and send high impact waves into the battery and not only charge, but condition them and they will last longer and hold a charge longer. You should also use this at the camper while connected for the summer as your typical converter will not have the multistage charge and your batteries will sulfate.
I would suggest getting the Battery Minder and try it for a few months to see if your battery comes back to a better operating capacity, if not, you will need a new battery. Another item I would install is LED lights as they will draw 10 times less battery power and your battery will again last longer!
Not sure why your lights get brighter when you use the blow dryer since it uses volts from a completely separate source, unless you are not plugged in to shoreline and when you do to use the blow dryer the lights get brighter which means the converter has kicked on and charging the batteries…brighter lights.
I accidentally ran the microwave in my fleetwood pace arrow, while my air conditioner was on. It was on generator power. Now neither the microwave nor the air conditioner will turn on. Also, none of the plugs will work. Not even to charge a phone. Weve checked all the fuses and circuit breaker, everything seems fine except for one fuse. It was a 15 and said it was fir the aux starter. We put a new fuse in it and the fuse tester is not lighting up green. Im not sure what to do.
I dont know how to fibd the converter or anything like that. We are just running the generator and battert. Hi Shae. A couple of things could have happened, first the generator probably has 2 lines coming off the generator, one going to the distribution center, the other to a back air conditioner if so equipped? There should be 2 circuit breakers on the generator itself for these two lines, check those first.
Next, you will have a main circuit breaker on the distribution center that shuts off all volt power inside the coach and then individual circuit breakers for volt appliances and outlets. I would also recommend using a multi-meter to verify power coming off them. Then, check in the kitchen or bathroom for the GFCI outlet. I would suspect the GFCI outlet has tripped and they are all dead?
Hit the test button and the reset button to see if you get power. If not, then you have something wrong with the distribution center. We have been trying to get it in shape to travel but… the latest trick is for nothing to work electrically.
When hooked to residential power all that is available is the lighting. All 3 batteries are new and installed correctly. The power converter appears dead. At one point the refrigerator turned on but only briefly. The water pump worked yesterday but not today. I think I need a new power converter but the unit by Progressive is no longer produced.
Any tips, anything else I should try before I try to change out the unit? Hello John, You have several things that could be going on here both volt and volt electrical. When you are connected to a residential source which you indicated, you are probably downsizing to a 10 amp or 15 amp residential plug in which will provide limited volt power and you will run the risk of tripping the residential breaker.
There are several videos on this procedure, however the easiest is to use a non-contact voltage tester after the circuit breaker. The three batteries you referred to are probably 2 6-volt batteries connected in series that are deep cycle and are the house batteries and the third is an automotive battery designed for starting the engine.
You may also have a battery disconnect that is off which is usually located in the entrance step area? I would suggest spending some time going through the tutorials on the site regarding operation of the batteries and appliances, then visit the troubleshooting volt batteries. Do you have DC power to any other interior appliance? When you are plugged into shoreline power, the volt power goes to the distribution center and then to a converter which provides volt DC power to the components through automotive type fuses.
Have you checked the fuses? I would first verify volt DC power at the battery, then to the distribution center and each fuse. You may have a battery disconnect switch that is over ridden when plugged into shoreline? To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your inverter fan cycling, we need the make, model, and year of your inverter.
Hello I have a vagabon 32 foot travel camper. Everything was running fine we are hooked up to a generator we also have a battery on board to use when the generator is off we took off the battery the other day to bring it into the house to charge. Assuming there would be no problem with that 5 hours later when we were turned the heater was not working but the outlets were.
After troubleshooting we found that plugging the battery back in worked. But then the battery died and the heater stopped again. How do I specifically test the converter itself? Did I burn up the converter having it run so many 12 volts options without a battery? I doubt you burned up the converter, rather the battery is required to create a circuit for the volt system? When you are plugged into a volt shoreline connection the converter will sense when the battery goes below When you remove the battery and nothing works, it indicates the converter is only connected to the battery and now you have an open circuit?
Some models are wired so the converter can still provide volts to the system without the battery, however it does not appear this is the case with yours? You should be able to use a multimeter on the battery and plug the system in and see it raise from current charge to a higher voltage coming from the converter.
We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership. Just bought a Winnebago destination….. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your inverter issue, we need the make and model of the inverter.
I would start by using a multimeter and check the condition of the batteries. They need to be Then you should be able to measure voltage coming out which evidently is 0? With the brand and model number we should be able to research if it has a reset sequence as well. I have a Thor Freedom Elite, when connected to shoreline power there is no problems and the inverter says about When off shore power the inverter just shows 3 red lines and the red light is on for fault.
The battery used to charge when the car is running but now its just blank as well. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your inverter issue we need the make, and model of the inverter. It sounds as though you have an issue on the inverter side or even the batteries?
When you are connected to shoreline, the converter or charger is running and showing you the Does your inverter have a reset switch that might have gotten tripped? If you have checked these out, I would get your batteries checked first and then the inverter as this should all be under warranty?
When we brought the trailer home, it was connected to 30 AMP service at the house that I had installed for a welder prior to the trailer purchase. I know that it provides the rated amperage. The problem has also occurred when connected to the post at campgrounds. We have had the trailer plugged in for extensive periods, weeks at the house, but only hours at the campgrounds, when the problem has arisen. Switching various lights or the refrigerator off would silence the alarm, but when turned back on, the alarm would sound again.
I unplugged and reconnected the cord from the post numerous times without success. After leaving the power unplugged for several hours, I was able to plug it back in and everything worked normally for two more days until we departed the campground or weeks at the house.
Our surge protector, Surge Guard , normally shows three green LEDs during these episodes, although once, it did indicate reverse polarity when first reconnected to the house service. I have not found anything unusual at the control panel, but I do suspect that the converter has been replaced, and by someone who may not have known what they were doing.
I say this because the converter was accessed by hacking through the wood on the side of its compartment instead of through the distribution center, and the Molex connector has electrical tape wrapped around it.
The shop that physically checked the trailer said that everything worked correctly for them and that it was because the battery was disconnected. I suspect that everything worked correctly for them, as it has for us at times, and they just reconnected the battery, which is a brand new marine model.
The last one I spoke with suggested that it might be an external circuit added by a previous owner. This circuit is to several external lights and is connected directly to the positive battery terminal, interrupted by a 12V automotive switch, and grounded to the frame. The circuit does not presently work, but I have not done any troubleshooting on it. The solid copper grounds, from the converter, in the rear storage compartment, do have corrosion on them due to water entering that compartment as well.
All leaks have been fixed, a new roof installed, etc. First I would suspect your CO detector operates off volt DC power from the house batteries since it will sound the alarm but go off when items are shut down and the batteries are allowed to recharge? My guess is the battery is probably a discount store battery that is not sufficient for the power demands of an RV? Probably a group 24 with limited amp hours and is probably already gotten sulfation on the plates due to improper charging?
Deep cycle batteries need to be charged with a multistage charge every month or sulfation will form on the plates and not provide the energy storage they were designed for. If the battery is sulfated, it will draw down to volts very quickly which would make the CO detector chirp. Shutting off other lights and such will allow the battery to regenerate somewhat which is why the CO detector shuts off.
Winnebago is using Napa Deep Cycle batteries as the lead plates are thicker, welds are more secure, and they last! Then replace the converter!
My husband says the batteries are working, because the pop out will go in and out when we are not plugged in. Any ideas why this would be? My ac was working one min and then its like we are not getting any elec. I have a Heartland Fuel , my 30 amp fuse is tripping when running generator. Appliances on are AC, ceiling fan, radio, lights and skillet. That should be a standard load. How do I prevent this? We were having issues with our AC not working properly so switched over from 30 amp to 50 amp extension cord.
How do I visually determine if we have blown a fuse? Non contact voltage sensor unreliable. Get someone hurt or cause them to damage equipment or start a fire. I have a Horse trailer with a factory conversion. For the past 17 years it has operated normally in all aspects, Recently while towing I received a warning from the truck that there is a wiring fault and the trailer is disconnected.
Although the marker lights, brake lights, etc are all functioning. When I disconnected the trailer from the truck the marker lights were still on. I suspect drawing from the onboard 12 volt battery.
The lights finally went out when the battery ran down. When I connect the V ckt, I get all the running lights, etc. Any recommendations? I suspect a converter replacement required there B-W manufacturing series A model Is the voltage drop a sign of a bad ground? The outlets in the bedroom always work but the rest of the outlets in the rv work when they feel like it.
Can you tell me why the coverter box is getting hot and making noise. When I plug the camper into electric, the lights and fridge settings are flickering and pulsating. We have a Jakyko Eagle 12 SO, when hooked to power supply the outlets work but when we try to plug in the battery the only thing that comes in is the carbon monoxide detector. The deep cell battery is fully charged and I replace the 4 car type fuses and the color units are all up and appear fine.
What should we try next? Is this something in my Solitude or the park power supply? In a keystone laredo, just arrived in New Orleans from Orlando fl, where everything worked fine. Everything was working fine this past weekend. We had to use electric heaters along with our furnace. Came home, plugged the RV in and I set up our heaters cause of the cold temps we had. Check in the morning and both heaters were dead. Replaced the GFCI, and still no power. Rest all have v AC.
What is going on??? I have a Keystone Montana 5th wheel. We are having problems with the power and cannot find the Battery to check it. If anyone knows where it is located, I would be forever gratful. On 5th wheels the battery is usually located in the front or side storage compartments.
If it is not there, I would check under the stairs and underneath the rest of the RV. Some manufactures would put them in a box that is mounted to the frame and can only be accessed by crawling underneath the unit. It has to have ventilation to the outside, so if in a compartment it would have to have a vent. If there are no vented compartments, it is most likely under the stairs or mounted on the frame underneath.
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